Yeah that's what I mean, the other tool I have reacts slowly, so if the airflow was erratic then it might not show up as well as on the Unisyn, which reacts very quickly.

Hmmm, not sure really but they do essentially the same thing just with a different reading. The snail type, or at least the one I have, has a bit of damping to it so the reading changes just a little slower than the Unisyn. That might be a disadvantage for the test you describe.

So you put back parts that were giving problems before and now they're working? First thought, I would never trust that a new coil or condenser is good. If you have a known good used spare, I would try that. You might want to test the resistance of the coil when cold, and then again when hot. If the...

I haven't seen erratic readings because of the type of tool, but I've had some of them where the disc couldn't be adjusted properly, and I had a couple where the plastic tube cracked when it got old. The other type is easier to use and more accurate in my experience.

Keep in mind that one downside (or design feature depending on how you look at it) of the original ends is that the toe decreases with speed. So setting the toe a bit aggressive can give the desired toe at higher speeds.

I've found the Uni-Syn to be a little flaky / finicky sometimes. I prefer the "snail" type. It's very accurate and no adjustments are ever necessary. Mine is similar to the one below.

Man, I'd rather have a totally blown engine and gearbox than one bad piece of wood! I agree buying a full tub is the best way to go unless you have the skills and patience to deal with building one yourself. And even then it's still tempting. The cost is certainly high, but for someone like me with ...

The previous owner of my '67 MGB GT did something similar. The rear quarters weren't welded on right so there was a big difference between the quarter and the bottom rear of the door. He made up the difference with filler. Needless to say, that has been remedied. Cut, filler strip and re-weld both s...

Wow, that's thick!

Mark, Duncan covered it pretty well but I will add that while the TC steering will never be as stable or light as the TD, it should be be pretty good once it's been set up correctly. One thing that usually isn't set right is the centering. Don't set it at the center of play, set it at the center of ...

I ordered my floorboards from Craig Seabrook / Whitworth Shop. They were spot on and high quality, at a reasonable price. If I were looking for other wood bits I would certainly consider ordering from him.

In addition to the above... aftermarket clamps are aluminum, so that's probably what one of your is.

If you can find an old steering shaft, you can use it as a broach.

I've seen more than one Brooklands hub where the splines were too tight and needed to be broached. These were new hubs, not originals.

These might help:

http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/lucas_check_charging.pdf

http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/lucas_ge ... _tests.pdf

I was thinking more of the Bridgestone, which are quite small and square but offer the advantage of a completely modern tire design. I would be very interested to compare the performance of the Bridgestone to the American Classic to see how they stack up. I'm betting the Bridgestone are noticably be...

I agree. Warm perhaps, but not hot. Clean the contacts and if it doesn't clear up then have it calibrated.

My notes say 7/16-18 BSF for the lower bolt to attache the bowl to the body.

It may not be that important to de-camber. Modern performance cars run quite a bit of negative camber. The only downside is the increased wear during normal driving. I have -3 degrees on both my MGA street car and my MGC track car and haven't noticed any significant side effects. Admittedly neither ...

Tough to say. By the looks of the fuel tank width and the running boards look fairly narrow (although totally incorrect) so I would guess TC. Measuring it would be the only way to know for sure unless someone sees something I missed. Strange cutout at the front of the bonnet also