The bronze bushing in the rear end that the axle slides through before it enters the hub is there more for oil control than axle support...quite often these are worn to nothing before its noticed they're worn. New axles and hubs with clean brake linings should be plenty to let you finish the trip. h...

Kam, did you ever get any?

I have no idea how I managed that!

Amazing!

Amazing!

Amazing!

Ditto here, Steve, Dirk...I have always wondered how someone could do that while seated in the driver's seat.

Bernd, Did you actually try driving the car after the BC box was worked on? You may have been amazed - parking lot driving takes more effort than you'd imagine but once above 10mph the steering is quick and nimble, albeit still old-fashioned feeling. Gene (Who hates the BC and has replaced his steer...

No idea Bob but it looks good.

I don't use the Chevy seal either but David's comments on troubleshooting leakage at the rear main are applicable to the Moss seal also. It's how I troubleshot and found my leakage points.

Some of the best information about resolving rear main oil leaks can be found here: http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/ChevyRearSeal.pdf If you're pulling the engine, turn it on its end as shown at the end of the article and pour oil into the rear main drain tube...you'll quickly find where your leaks a...

Paul...try contacting Bob Grunau of this group. He should have what you need: grunau.garage@sympatico.ca

Gene

Roger, This is for a TC but I would imagine it's close enough for you to use for the TA. http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/slow_running_control.htm Not sure if you're familiar with the Resources section of the website but there's a section called Technical that covers a number of questions about the en...

From the garage to the trailer and back into a garage it should be safe without the axles, Kam. They don't provide support to the wheels, simply motion. Remember, if you break an axle the wheel doesn't fall off.

Although I had the key way cut I'm not using it. My machinist assured me the friction fit of the taper would be sufficient and many miles of use has proved that to be very good advice.

Gene

Kam, as long as you keep the drip hole clear (make sure the cotter pin is free to wiggle) not a lot of oil is going to be able to remain in the bellhousing area. When the flywheel is spinning the wind in the bellhousing will force most of the oil to the edges of the bellhousing where it will eventua...

Kam, I use a machine shop...charged $25 each to do the work on a mechanical lathe. It's not rocket science. I believe that Pat Leask (posts here) recently had the work done in Canada...maybe he'll chime in.

Gene

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned one other thing you can do while you have your oil pan off which is to either remove, shorten by an inch or so, or drill holes in the drain pipe from the rear main bearing bottom cap. This is an excerpt from an article by David Edgar (http://www.mg-tabc.org/li...

I have 2 TC's, one with a 4.55 (supercharged) and one 4.22 (supercharged). Neither engine is quite a "built" as Bob's, in fact the one running the 4.55 is a stock bore, but both easily pull the higher ratio with the supercharger. My problem is I have 5 speed transmissions in both of them and the 4.2...

That's correct...a supercharger isn't useful in providing more speed, it's usefulness is in increased torque when needed, i.e., mid range.