Hi Ray, This is one of the most difficult aspects of the build to get right. This is where I eventually got to with mine. I decided that the critical point was the level of the rear tips with respect to the chassis and the line where they meet the body tub. How high the front of the wing is up from ...

I recently took delivery of a complete bespoke TC interior by these people. They also supply standard kits. The quality of workmanship is second to none. Not cheap! You might think that they are not cheap, but it depends on what you're buying. Their seat foam is a fraction of the price of that from...

You shouldn't be putting anything on it. It has to be metal to metal in order to get the end float of the gears right. If the face is not perfectly flat the cap should be skimmed. You can check end float by putting a flat edge across the top of the gears in the body and then using feeler gauges to m...

Apologies if this post breaks the rules (if so, please delete), but I thought that the following might be of interest/value to our UK members as it refers to an experience that I have had with a company called SGS Engineering based in Derby. In brief, I was in need of a compressor so started to shop...

You cannot usually pull the pump body off as it will not clear the chassis by time that the drive shaft comes out of the block. Due to the closeness of the fit between the shaft and the engine block you will not have any wiggle room until it's quite a long way out. Assuming that the shaft has the wo...

Hi Tim, It would be great to catch up and compare notes. Long time no see. I'm tied up the last weekend in August and the first weekend in September though.

They are original parts, but I suspect not all from the same car. The closeness of the fit is down to two things i) a lot of trial fitting. Like you, I reworked the profile a bit to get it to fit (although not a lot). Ii) I took the pictures from further away than you did 😁 I prefer to spend time re...

I've also finished the engine except for the carbs. I'm working on the dashboard at the moment and I've trimmed it, fitted the edge chrome and the main instruments. The centre panel is well on it's way to being completed and a new dashboard wiring loom has been sourced and is ready to fit. More pict...

I thought that it was about time that I did a quick progress report: After a long battle with the rear wings, they now fit. One problem was that it turns out that I didn't have a matching pair - further evidence that my car had been in a crash. I ended up having to cut and reprofile one of the wings...

Hi Mark, I found that fitting to the fuel tank and then rotating into place didn't work - I guess because variations in fitting the rear quarer panels of the tub (I did a complete rebuild of the tub) meant that I couldn't get a good fit on the rear curves that way. What I found worked best was to fi...

Thanks for the confidence building advice. I had a feeling that I was being too picky.

Antijam, if my car ends up anywhere near as good as yours looks then I'll be a happy bunny.

I've been fitting my rear wings and have encounted a dilemma. TC Forever states that the wing should stick out ca. 1/2" from the edge of the running board. However, if I do that then the wing does not sit parallel with the body. You cannot really see that, but when the wheel is back on it's fairly o...

As I was transferring the instruments to my new dashboard, I noticed that the ammeter was rattling. I took it apart and found that something that looks like a paperclip had came off a pair of metal posts where it had previously been soldered on. This loop presumably creates a magnetic field that def...

Thanks Tom. Just one more thing (I'm starting to sound like Columbo). Unless I'm missing some form of insulation, it seems to me that the chrome bulb cover on the map light will be live as it's in direct contact with the bulb holder. Is that correct?

Thanks Ray, that's a useful document.

I'm still puzzled by the map light though. Mine were attached to the dash by short screws rather than through bolts, so there is no nut to crimp the earth wire under. Maybe I could just solder the wire to the body of the light fitting?

So, I've disassembled the horn/Dip switch for cleaning and painting. I can see where the three wires go for the switch and the one for feed for the horn, but where does the earth wire connect? Similarly with the map light - there is a central soldered connection, but nowhere obvious for the earth.

Hi Ray, I cannot help with supplying a bull horn, but seeing your post has reminded me to get in touch to see if I could pop over one day before the weather breaks to see how your restoration is coming on. I'm only in Eastwood, so just down the road from you. WRT the bull horn, mine needed to be ben...

Thanks for the advice Antijam. I've managed to get the chrome strip on without incident. When I started to drill it for the screws I noticed that it was actually chrome on brass so it bent quite easily. Norman - I'm not around on Friday, but I'm getting my kit car MOT'ed on Monday, so maybe I could ...

I've been making a new dashboard from plywood and rexine substitute (see picture) and I have some questions: i) should the bases of the map lights be black or the same bronze colour as the instrument panel? Ii) what is the best way fit the chrome beading around the edge without it kinking? It has a ...

Having inspected my propshaft, I'm going to replace both UJs. Obviously the shaft was balanced when originally put on the car (I can see two balance weights on the shaft). Do I need to get it balanced again, or is it safe to assume balanced for once, balanced for life? For UK members only, what sort...