The XPAW engine is basically the same engine as the XPAG so dimensionally they’re the same.

Why not post this on a TD/TF website? The steering/front end of the TA/TB/TC is completely different than your TF and it’s doubtful you’ll get much help here.

Pat,

Have the Petronics in both of my negative ground TC's...never a moment of trouble. http://www.thewedgeshopstore.com/pertro ... ymetrical/

You won’t regret it, Pat.

On the TC there is a definite gap and it will vary between cars.

According to page 215 of TC's Forever: "Running Board....The butted rear end is curved to match the rear wing front face but does not reach it, leaving a small gap"

Tom, I have 2 TC's, one with the Datsun conversion and one with the VW conversion. I've also driven TC's with the BC box so I feel like I can speak from experience. Yes, a properly set-up BC box has a sporty feel on the road and a smaller turning radius but unless it's "properly" set-up it's a bitch...

Norman, Not sure you can get to it from the inside but I've never tried. Take a blunt (flat faced) punch and tap the sides of the drive flange from side to side (maybe try some 50% ATF/acetone mixture to soak around the edges first. Once you get it moving you should be able to wiggle it out. The oth...

Wouldn't clutter anything....and would be a good reference. Please share for the next person, Marv.

Good to know it's "solved"....

Supercharger with a 4.22 or 4.55 differential from a Sprite/Midget (http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/diff.htm)

5-speed is nice but the higher rear end ration will negate the need for it...

Any update?

Kam, I'd email Roger and ask what the diameter of the axle shaft should be just to make sure there wasn't a machining error. They should be the same diameter as the original axles in that area.

There was no need for me to remove/enlarge/push-in the oil scrolls. My tapered shafts (Bob Grunau) were the same diameter from the pumpkin end to the start of the taper...where did yours come from?

And lastly, check the tie-rod ends. I believe the book says to tighten the end to where you can just get the cotter in. A lot of times this leaves a bit of slack and you'll get a resonance set up because the spring can compress and uncompress a little, giving you a shimmy (and sometimes a death shak...

Kam, to answer your question...slide the axle into the hub (I assume you are using the key) and then tighten the nut to draw them tight. They're not going to go anywhere...I'm not even using the key (machinist told me it wasn't needed with the 1/4 Morse taper) and still tight as a drum years later. ...

Kam, it's only "syrupy" until it gets warm...which doesn't take long.

Richard,

Understand what you're saying but when cam makers recommend high ZDDP levels when using flat tappet cams then that particular additive is important and is only found in sufficient quantity in certain commercial oils.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/flat-tappet-cam-tech/

Highly recommend Valvoline VR-1 20w50 motor oil. High ZDDP content and readily available

Bolt on...

kam...

Email Bob Grunau - he'll know the tolerances since he sells the tapered halfshafts.

grunau.garage@sympatico.ca