I found a pair of reflectors with sockets and clamps included, plus one bulb. They need to be cleaned and polished, and would of course be better with fresh silver or aluminum applied. I'm not sure what they're worth but If interested, shoot me an email. Rob, I also found a couple dipping reflectors...

There's a guy in the USA who sells them on eBay for $70, as seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/266575035014

Here's another ad in the UK at about the same price, but not sure how old it is: https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/store ... rays.shtml

Unfortunately while chrome is easier and perhaps even cheaper, it has a greatly reduced reflectivity compared to silver or aluminum. I can't say how that translates to the quantity of light emitted since I've never used chrome reflectors, but maybe it isn't as bad as it seems.

I use Redline Heavy Shockproof Oil. They recommended it over their 140W and other oils.
https://www.redlineoil.com/heavy-shockproof

Agreed! The brass fitting attaches to the inside wall of the oil pan. The pointed cap can be removed for cleaning the pickup screen inside.

What a beauty! I've always wanted to build one, but I'm not foolish enough to think I would ever finish it.

That spring ensures there is pressure on the sealing surface.

Not that gas can't pour out the vent hole on the first hard right turn with a full tank...

I may have some reflectors that would need re-silvering. If it would help I can search around for them.

For the tach, I suggest calling West Valley Instruments in Reseda, California. They rebuild chronometric instruments and may be able to supply what your friend needs.

Welcome, Bryan! The car certainly looks solid and presentable, and seems to have a pretty complete history. The issues do sound typical of a kid on a budget many years ago. I look forward to hearing about your progress. In the meantime, you may be interested in this article I wrote a while back on t...

The thread is 7/16-18 BSF as I recall. I know repair kits are out there. Joe Curto and Butch Taras both offer repair services.

The key should find its own way in. If it doesn't, try a bit of grease. If it still doesn't, it will start to push away from the knockoff as the assembly threads in. At this point, simply rotate it by hand until it snaps into place. The medallion should have a radius slightly flatter than the knocko...

The factory calls for just under one quart, which is right about at the bottom of the side plug. I like to put in a full quart just because it makes me feel better. Filling to the top of the filler cap is way too much! I'm not an engineer but it seems to me there would not only be a lot more drag cr...

I think its ok so go in by hand, but you don't want any actual play. One other note is that those old original bearings with bronze cages are known to fail given enough miles. A modern steel replacement isn't a bad idea, or a tapered bearing conversion. Roger sells them.

Good luck!

You just need something to hold the flange from rotating. The first photo shows the factory tool. The second photo is what you can make in a pinch from a piece of angle iron from the local hardware store. You bolt it to a couple of the flange holes.

Oh, I was picturing underneath. If I had to guess, I would say that's the original paint. The tubs were painted before assembly so I believe that face would have had paint on it. Maybe others will have a more educated opinion.

Tough call. The wood was not painted, so if there is red overspray then that would certainly be an indication of a previous color. Whether or not it was the original color would be harder to confirm, since the car has been painted at least once. If the metal was all removed from the wood during a pa...

I've run into that with hub shims many times, from different suppliers. It seems like an easy thing to get right for whoever manufactures them. I have to measure every shim to make sure it's what it says it is.

I don't normally use sealer at all, and haven't noticed any leaks. But the rest of the car leaks so much I might not notice...

Looks like bronze bearing cages, as was original. They are known to do that when they get old. My last project TC came with the same issue, and unfortunately it had blown the diff apart. The gears and central housing were all wrecked.