I've never seen any stick-on labels that looked good to me. In fact I left mine without labels at all because I dislike stickers so much. But to answer your question, I think the second attempt looks much better than the first. The less clear stuff the better. Another option would be to have a vinyl...

Not an unreasonable modification. NIce job.

It sounds like you have a later engine with the oiler. The factory specifies engine oil for this location. The earlier ones used Duckham's H.B.B. grease.

I think I'm in last place so far.

I just got a package of parts from the UK, so I'm moving forward on TC9849's restoration. This week is focusing on the front axle. I'm also doing a front suspension rebuild on the Healey.

I don't have the answer, but the TA body is 1.5" narrower than the TC so it's possible that there are differences.

I just went out and double checked my memory. Pull down and turn clockwise (as viewed from underneath) to reset. Pull down and turn counterclockwise to increase mileage. It's possible the little gear on the reset knob isn't aligned properly with the gear it's supposed to engage. Or it's spinning on ...

cdrolshagen wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 10, 2020 11:32 pm

without this jig it is not possible to press the link arm into the rubber bush,

It is possible, just not easy. I've done it a few times and hated it each time! I have 8 shocks to do soon so this time I'll make a jig.

Very nice. I've been planning to build a jig to hold the link arm. Now that I see yours, it gives me a good idea on how to do it. Without a jig like that it's really hard to get the link into the shock arm bushing.

Try uploading to YouTube. Then when you post the link here, the video will automatically appear.

The cover just pulls off. There are a couple detents at the base which keep it in place.

Removing the shocks is easy. Replacing the rubber is not. Two bolts hold the shock in place on the chassis. And one nut for the link arm.

Nothing sucks fuel faster than my MGC.

Tom, my old neighbor had a brass era Fiat with a Sopwith Camel engine. It would do a reported 140MPH, although he wasn't brave enough to test that.

Fantastic car, but probably hard to take on an extended tour!

It's been a while but I seem to remember numbers around 125 for stock and I think mine at 9.1:1 tests about 145 or so. My head is not skimmed, but I have high top pistons. I think with the high tops and a head skimmed 30 thou it was around 165. These numbers are purely from long term memory so I cou...

There is a lubrication chart in the TC manual. I've attached a copy. Hopefully you can read it. (Click for larger)
Here's another source: http://www.tcmotoringguild.org/techinfo ... _check.pdf

Assuming the cam is timed correctly, ignition timing is good (should be around 7-degees BTDC), valves aren't too loose and everything else in order, then raising the compression would be the most economical way to make additional power. However since uncut heads aren't exactly growing on trees anymo...

If they are the same as TC, I usually buy them from Moss Motors or from FTFU. Installing is very difficult. Moss sells a tool which helps make it easier, but it still is not easy.

Here's a photo.

Could it be that the original material was rubber coated woven cloth? Similar to the rear axle limiting straps on MGA, MGB, etc? If the rubber were to wear away then it would leave just the cloth. That could explain why the two different materials are found on seemingly unrestored cars.