I am sure it was the "finest silver plate", only problem is that it is quite pricey to restore these days and doesn't really last all that long without tarnishing, corroding, or whatever it does.

Please keep in mind that when using the standard bulbs in these reflectors they are "focused" as I recall by moving them in and out and must be mounted in a certain way so that the high and low beams are oriented correctly. I believe TC's Forever goes into process. So in order to put a modern haloge...

Yes Ray you are correct, I was thinking of more current "standard" lamps as in sealed beams or fog and driving lamps.

I believe it is the same one that Morgan uses, check the length to see if it is long enough. Should be many sources for that in the UK.

I had the reflectors chrome plated on my TC that is pictured above and they worked fine given the wattage of the bulbs that were used. Silvering was rather pricey and not all that durable. It seems to me that standard lamps were all chrome plated anyway.

I put almost 20,000 miles on TC2911 during the time I owned her and enjoyed every minute. I do admit that very few were at night and those that were in "very familiar territory". Old eyes aren't that good at night no matter what you are using. Given that, there are just so many wonderful lines and f...

When I restored TC2911 many years ago, I replaced the "updated" 7" lamps and reducers with the proper lenses, bulbs, reflectors and other hardware needed to take it back to what was original. It looked proper and I didn't regret it one bit! Driving the old car at night out of my area was something I...

I broke the crank in my 1500 MGA when I was in college. It would still run, but believe me the noise let you know that it was a catastrophic failure of some sort.

Duncan, I think there is a good deal of truth to both those articles. Reality is that most of the Brit cars of the period used a similar arrangement to the XPAG, some working better than others. I think the adjustability of the XPAG seal can work pretty well. I recall reading an article about the MG...

Most of the oil comes by the bottom of the slinger if there is too much clearance between the crank and the screw threads. When this is mounted properly as the article that Steve posted suggests it works pretty well no matter what sort of driving you do. When I bought TC2911 it leaked a tea cup of o...

When I rebuilt the engine in TC2911, I installed the modern lip seal conversion. It leaked, likely because of my installation not being exact enough. Ultimately I went back to the slinger. I read all the information I could find, ultimately I reduced the clearance of the slinger so it was in slight ...

Duncan, I really don't think that Dot 5 turns to sand, but if E type owners prefer not to use it, that is just fine with me.

Duncan, to be honest I don't have anything with a vacuum booster in the system on an old British car. My Plus 8 had one, but I chose not to install when I restored the car as they did not have a reputation for reliability in those days.

What we see in the cold damp winters of Ohio is if a car sits and now many of these cars sit for several years without use as owners get older and less attentive, the Dot 3 isn't touched and the hydraulics become a disaster. I restored my early Plus 8 Morgan in the early 90's and it goes years witho...

Gents, like I said originally, I have used silicone fluid since it became available in the market, what late 70's? I live in Ohio which precludes using these cars over several months in damp, cold, salty, rainy weather. I have read what all the engineers say and write and draw about compressibility,...

The system needs to be disassembled and completely cleaned of old fluid and used rubber parts should be replaced with new. I have on occasion disassembled a silicone filed system for repair and never found water anywhere in the system. You can flush you old system every year, but you don't get all t...

I have used silicone brake fluid in these old cars that sit all winter since it first became available, I guess back in the 70's. My TC is no exception. New wheel cylinders, MC, flex lines and steel lines. No problems, no issues, no sticky pistons.

Suggest building your new tub on the chassis that is sitting on its wheels on the ground with running gear installed. The weight of the running gear does have an affect on how the tub sits and in particular how the doors open and close.

Nobody will knock off points for a 1/4" one way or the other. These panels were pretty much made up by hand and my rear wings have a slightly different curve lower front from one to another, hence this dimension is also off. However it is something that the eye really does not notice since there are...

Keep in mind that if the head has not been milled the cranking pressure is not going to be all that high.