I haven't used them but I don't see any red flags. They don't seem to carry much though.

EDIT: A web search showed two very dissatisfied customers who got cheap knockoff parts instead of the parts they ordered. I didn't find anything else whether positive or negative.

I believe they were originally some kind of fiber board.

I just ran into a TC the other day with the same thing - the bracket was blocking one of the windscreen stanchion screws. But only on one side. Odd.

Hi Rob, I think the first issue is that everyone has used a different car for their initial measurements. I would definitely expect some variation from one car to another, although the numbers you quote seem a bit too much. If it were me, and I were confident the metal was original and/or correct, t...

Keep the wife, replace the switch.

I wonder if a better idea would be to thread the shaft, then thread the knob on with a locknut above it. Or maybe the shaft is too thin to cut threads into without making it even weaker. I haven't seen the shaft since the tach was out.

Every tach I have here is missing the knob so I was hoping someone else would chime in. Here's a photo of the area on my TC, which I assume is the same as TA. The distance from the bottom of the clock to the bottom edge of the dash (through the hole where the knob goes) is just over 1/2". Hopefully ...

That's a real shame. I'm not sure that will straighten out without damaging the chrome. But I don't think you'll be happy with the fit either.

Congratulations!

I would assume (dangerous I know) that it would be the same as the rest of the pre-war cars. The SA parts book does specify "rubber lacing" so whatever the SA had, I'm betting the TA had. I also suspect that if it were rubber coated canvas, the lacing would look just like solid rubber. One thing tha...

I'm not sure anyone ever solved this definitively. The general wisdom suggests that it was a rubberized woven canvas. Some claim that later TCs switched from this to rubber but I don't know if that's accurate. I believe the big pre-war saloons specified "rubber lacing" but again it's likely this was...

I have a NOS Moss crankshaft here (451-490) that just came out of the box with a bit of a surprise. Has anyone seen this before? Possibly a balancing thing? I was planning to put this into an engine with a Moss rear seal kit, so obviously this won't work unless anyone has any bright ideas? If not th...

I believe many pre-war cars had spark plug holders fitted, but postwar is all aftermarket.

The shift knob must be original. It's so old there's nothing left but bones! Late home market also had a tan/bronze dash. I used the Moss paint and it's definitely more bronze. The tan on your panel looks very similar to side curtain frame tan. I don't have letters, because I haven't found a good wa...

Satin would be closer to original.

To the best of my knowledge, it's just a wood screw with a round, slotted head.

I've heard both good and bad about them. I'm not sure why they work well for some and not for others. Maybe it's the type of lube used?

The PA is a slow car compared to a TC. I think the overall experience is similar, just smaller and slower. Obviously there are other differences like gearbox syncros (or lack thereof) but the idea is similar. I think the TC is easier to live with, but both are fine cars.

I crawled under as best I could and it looks like they are 1/4" thick steel plate. The position of the holes can be matched up with the bottom plate. Once you drill the holes, cut the plate on each side right through the center of the holes and you'll have the right width. But remember to leave the ...

Most people seem to use marine door latches. This is what FTFU and others sell. Search the web for "marine door latch" and you'll get lots of hits. Here's what FTFU has: https://fromtheframeup.com/products/ac1 ... h-set-of-2