MG TA Electrics

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martinjames
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2015 8:48 pm
Location: New Zealand

MG TA Electrics

Post by martinjames » Sun Apr 28, 2019 1:43 am

Have just completed a nut and bolt restoration and including new loom and rewound dynamo.
Everything works except the red ignition light won't go out and the ammeter shows a discharge. It has a CJR3 cutout. Dynamo shows 11 Volts. Have played around with the third brush but still has the light on.
Any ideas how I can get it charging and the light to go out.
Martin

bloodysalmon
Posts: 230
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 4:10 am
Location: Nottinghamshire, UK

Re: MG TA Electrics

Post by bloodysalmon » Sat May 04, 2019 11:37 am

Hi Martin, as know one has responded I thought I'd give my very limited experience which just may give you a few ideas. Firstly, electrics are a voodoo subject to me too, so you are not alone. I've just spent a month on and off trying to understand the wiring I have on my repatriated TC from the US. It isnt genuine nor does it match much of the colour coded cables ... but it was almost complete and fitted to the car. I'm doing an 'oily-wrag' restoration on TC1472 so I'm trying use what there is. With a point to point wire tester I've established what all but 2 wires are there for and lablled them accordingly. The loom underneath the scuttle mainly comes from the cutout/fuse box area, while the crucial wires have been checked and added too behind the dashboard while on the bench. So I will be facing a similar scenario, if and when the lights for the dash come on and or go off. So there's the thought Martin. When you switch the ignition on does everyhting work ok prior to pulling the starter switch? is your ammeter connected and does it show devience when iginition is on and then off? If you switched on your lights does that show further discharge from the 11v you mention? You need to be sure everything is good and that nothing is wrong prior to seeing if it is charging or not. Get a stable setup.
I've not looked at a TA wiring diagram but I would say its going to be very similar to a TC. Perhaps yu need to check back to see if you have bridged a circuit accidently which would stop the light going off if charge is beyond 12.5 'ish. ... lets see what you have to say so far!
Chris Blood - TC2686& TC3615

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Franz Tenbrock
Posts: 539
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2018 9:39 am
Location: Waltrop Germany

Re: MG TA Electrics

Post by Franz Tenbrock » Sat May 04, 2019 12:49 pm

Hallo
i have a TA 1932 too
but in the 80 s they change a lot, XPAG engine, Lucas 340B etc.
so i want to change to an original look.
so i read a lot
you have seen this here
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/mgtc-ele ... rcuits.pdf
there are a lot of information.

i will change to an tc electric with a lucas 95 regulator ( i got a cheap original one ) ore i tale the lucas 340 and put it to my printed CJR3 case

not the same problem
Best Regards
Franz

3D Print: CJR3 case for Lucas340, individual Titan-X spark plug holder, resin printed octagon hazzard light switch and some more,

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Richard Michell
Posts: 89
Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2015 2:39 pm

Re: MG TA Electrics

Post by Richard Michell » Sat May 04, 2019 11:52 pm

I would have hoped that those more expert would have replied. If the 11 volts is at revs then you definitely have a charging problem.

Lucas published a very logical troubleshooting sequence for this, e.g. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/pdf/Luc ... _Tests.pdf

Follow the early steps to test your generator. In the test (2) where you link F and D directly, do not run it for too long if the voltage rises as it should. You can melt something. Just check that it delivers a voltage above 15 or so.

bloodysalmon
Posts: 230
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2018 4:10 am
Location: Nottinghamshire, UK

Re: MG TA Electrics

Post by bloodysalmon » Sun May 05, 2019 12:04 am

yes I'm no expert for sure but sometimes, just sometimes its the simple and obvious things we forget to check
Chris Blood - TC2686& TC3615

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