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Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 5:12 am
by bloodysalmon
Incidently, what do you recommend to be the torque setting for the head nuts then? :)

Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 5:24 am
by Gene Gillam
Chris...all of the torque settings can be found here: http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/torque.htm

Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:52 am
by Steve Simmons
What a mystery we have here. If it were me, I would take the head off and try to find where it was coming from. Perhaps the engine builder would be willing to help with this since he assembled it.

Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 2:20 am
by Tom Lange, MGT Repair
The factory torque recommended for head studs is 50#, which is the limit of the materials they used - fairly soft. Even at that there can be considerable stretch, causing uneven torque.

The ARP head studs I have made and sell, of superior materials and with rolled threads, are torqued to 60#, and are much used on racing engines with high stress. See mgtrepair.net for details.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair

Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:02 pm
by Ray White
Chris. It is always possible that a piece of crud - or even swarf from the machining - may have fallen out of the head while it was being fitted. I have had this happen and had to clean everything and start again. If I hadn't noticed it then a similar problem might have occurred. Your engine builder may have unfortunately missed something simple like that.

I remember collecting a block from Cotterell engineering in Clay Cross who were supposed to have cleaned it following a rebore. Accidentally, the block tipped over in the back of my car and a pile of scarf fell out. Of course they were sorry but it shouldn't have happened.

Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 11:51 am
by bloodysalmon
Hi Ray, good to hear from you. I suspect this wont be the issue as any muck wont cause water to be drawn up ALL 10 head studs.
On a positive note; I have bled the brakes today, greased throughout and sorted the steering to enable me to drive a little more safely out there. I've only gone around about 2 miles slowly but ... I think the problem is reseeding as the engine beds down ... going for a 4-5 mile drive tomorrow. Having not been on the road since late 60's I'll driving with more than a slight trepidation. Oh, and as this is an 'oily-rag' restoration but more like a resurrection!

Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 10:54 am
by bloodysalmon
Just had a thought; thinking about the other forum question about engine differences between TC and TD. Well, I knew my TC1472 had a replacement engine as its stamped on a square plaque stating so. However, I did think it was a TC one but I now realize its not, its a TD so ... is it possible even though I have had a new gaskets, would it be feasible to suggest that a TC head gasket on a TD block/head may create the scenario of water capillary action up the threads?

Re: 'water on the head', no not that one, the cylinder head!

Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 11:53 am
by Steve Simmons
It would make no difference. The water holes don't come anywhere near the head studs. I suppose if there was a LOT of corrosion then perhaps that could be an issue, but mixing heads and blocks shouldn't have any effect. Here is a photo of a banana hole (TC / early TD) head.