Bolt Positions for MG TC stringer wood question

[SteveW]

I've now started to test fit the stage 2 (as defined by TC's Forever) wood to my TC (see my other post for my stage 1 report) and I have a question.

A big reason for the need to do a body rebuild was that the tub looks as though it had been stored sitting on wet ground so the wood side stringers were completely rotted. This means that I'm not sure how they are supposed to be bolted to the body irons. My guess is that countersunk slot headed 1/4" bolts are used, but how many and where are they located? Any advice would be appreciated.

The following pictures show the test fit of the near side, held together with clamps, and also the body iron with the holes that are already drilled in it marked. There is a hole at each tape location and the ones with red circles seem to correspond with holes in the rotted wood. The yellow circle marks the position of a slotted hole.

[Marv]

Steve: I have just recently remove the wood on my car and have new wood from Craig Seabrook. My main body stringers were in a state of partial dry rot but all intact and relatively solid. I will look on them and take some pictures for you as I believe them to be original to the car. So as not to clutter up this space, I'll send the info to your direct email if that's OK.

Marv
TC5141

[SteveW]

Hi Marv,

That would be great, thanks. Much appreciated.

Steve

[Gene Gillam]

Wouldn't clutter anything....and would be a good reference. Please share for the next person, Marv.

[Marv]

OK Gene, I'll post them here, probably tomorrow....

Marv

[Marv]

I've fitted the old timbers to the frame rails on my body jig. The following pics show holes and hardware used on TC5141. Undoubtedly, the factory did not make every one of our cars the same but I believe my timbers to be original to the car. They are identical in hardware and positions used on both LH & RH rails.

The RED tape shows the positions of through bolts, NOTE: my car had a through hole, bolt and nut on the elongated forth hole in the frame rail.
The BLUE tape shows where flat head screws were used and came in from the interior of the rail but I plan on using a through hole bolt and nut on re-assembly.

[Marv]

The following pics are of the frame rail without the timber clamped to it.

The RED tape shows the positions of through bolts, NOTE: my car had a through hole on the elongated forth hole in the frame rail.
The YELLOW tape with a BLACK taped "X" shows where flat head screws were used and came in from the interior of the rail. (No through hole).
The BLUE tape shows where flat head screws were also used and came in from the interior of the rail but I plan on using a through hole bolt and nut on re-assembly. In fact, I really don't see why a through hole bolt and nut attachment method couldn't be used in all locations. Could be a reason for it but it fails me at present. It is to be noted that the through holes also are for mounting the running boards, or at least three of them are.

[SteveW]

Thanks Marv, that's a big help. I had assumed that someone had been a little over zealous in drilling holes in my body irons, but it looks as though we have the same number of holes in roughly the same places.

Like you, I don't really see the point of using screws from the back, unless it was just for ease of assembly. Although, it would be kind of hard to get the screws in straight as the chassis is in the way of the screwdriver.

By the way, what type of through bolts were they? I am assuming that they are 1/4" countersunk slot head, but I guess that they could be hex head, with a recess drilled into the outer face of the stringer to allow the quarter panel to fit flush.

[Marv]

The through holes excepting the ones for running board mounting were all c'bored to accept a flat washer and hex head bolt Steve. No flat heads except on the wood screws coming in from the frame side. If you click on one of my pictures where the stringers are laying on the floor, it will open up into a separate view pane, You can then go up to the menu bar and click on view to enlarge the picture to 150 % or 200 % and you will clearly see the c'bores. Although, if I do use all through bolts on re-assembly, I will have to use flat head c'sunk bolts on the thinner wood sections up front.