MG T-ABC

Here's one Franz did for me. My painting choice.

Tim

so the problem wasn t solved
when the car was hot it doesn t run
so i take the carburettor and cleaned it
then i make the adjusment with this explanation

http://www.mgcc.se/uploads/text6461.pdf

i take the alternative one ;-) , THX to Carl how gave me


the jet was 2.2 mm for the first setting.
the car starts perfectly, but it was too fat

first I synchronized both the front and rear carburetors.
with a tool from a friend
then I drove the car 5 km

I have turned the screw of the jet nozzle because too fat,
1/6 around to the top.
Wait 2 minutes
still too fat
so another 1/6
at 4/6 the car stops smoking and runs well for now
after a longer tour tomorrow i will check the spark plugs
will see what happens when the engine is really warm

all polished and cleaned, no dirt anymore ;-)

i have no slow running system, so i will buy some parts to rebuild it

the old fuel hose between the carburettors comes next, the other two flex hoses I just made.
Had made me some time ago a tool with which I can squeeze hose sleeves

so yesterday we have a classic car meeting
we drove around 4 hours,
3 hours no problems
then the car jerked, he didn't take the gas properly.
A few kilometres further in a bend he went all out without warning.
I tried to start, nothing happend
I released a banjo on the fuel line and immediately the gasoline pumpoe started,
a little gasoline went on the ground.

On the other side I looked at a spark plug, a little bit sooty but very little,
i tried to start the engine and took a look to the spark,no fire.

I screwed the spark plug back in, took a spare plug, the same, no fire.

Then the distributor cap was removed and checked, everything looked ok.
Then all cables at the distributor ignition coil checked, there I had lost a disc and replaced by a normal brass disc, which was apparently a little too small,
was that the problem?
Cable tries to push in as hard as possible, the car started, whether it was cooling down or the cable ???

Today I took a suitable brass disc and processed the cables with a large point of soldering tin, installed and drove

Today I drove in hot weather.
3 km to a gas station, 98er gasoline refueled
started, no problem,
2 km driven and somewhat unloaded
again, everything without any problems
i could accelerate perfectly

8 km further on, I think the engine was just warm, friends visited and talked for 15 minutes,
then tried to start, some problems, he didn't want to start first

then across the fields with about 80km , after 15 more km at home the car parked, 20 minutes waited, this time started at the 3rd time, some smoke from the exhaust pipe
4 km, the throttle is not quite optimal when accelerating fast and a bit jerky.

a problem with ignition ? i have a new ignition coil q12 from holden


that's it for today

??????

Steve S, did you get my e-mail? No answer.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator and me ;-)

Hi Franz,
"some smoke from the exhaust pipe"
what colour has the smoke, black or blue?
Carl

Hallo Carl
i think more black than blue
and the spark plug are a little bit sooty

as i have seen it is only when the car is hot
the car runs perfect when it is cold. the first 15 km

i have to turn the jet a little bit higher ?

got on Sunday evening a Bosch flash lamp for 30 euros
with the old original statement
Grandpa died?!

Hi Franz,

"and the spark plug are a little bit sooty" dry or wet soot?

" i have to turn the jet a little bit higher ?"
No, this affects just the idlening mixture, not the mixture in the running position of the needle.

Check the petrol level in the float,

cheers Carl

a little bit sooty" dry

like this here ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82YNx-RkGNI

in the evening
it is hot outside

THX

PS Carl :
Ich trinke einen roten auf dich, die Flaschen sind gestern bei mir angekommen
aber eine Wiedergutmachung ist schon unterwegs
aber ob die ankommen ;-)

so next step
slow running install

i have to move the start knob

i get some parts from mgbits today ( lever, spring )
other parts made by myself
some hours later
ready.

Looks great!

Interesting position of fuel pump and coil.

that should be the original position for an TA
ok
it is xpag engine not mjpg

next step choke

in the 80s the car came to Germany and a lot of work was done ;-(
they take a new starter like the modern one in the picture

what was original ? for TA for TC

this here ?

Hi Franz,
the second picture is the correct swith for TA-TC,
but it is fitted on rear of the starter motor.
Cheers Carl

perhaps it is interesting for all here,
my car is not running perfect when hot, as i have written.
but
i have read a lot to SU carburettors today, and translated a lot of this here:
http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-su-carburetters

i have read that the dumper must have oil and air
we have two kind of damper caps, one with hole and without hole

without hole it should have a footbridge with a hole in the cover

only one hole is nessasary, not zero not two

i have a carburttor cap without hole as you see
but then the air should come from somewhere else

i have seen two holes what are closed now, so a piston for a cover with footbridge ???
my car is a mixrrd together one i think

this is not ok !?

so i have to make a little hole into the cap ?? x mm ?

is this my problem ??

I think the owners before have driven the car only 2000 km in 40 years ...
the car was rebuild in the 80s

so today a lot of work in office
and
a 2mm hole in the dashpot cap
and
taken my
LUCAS POINTS ADJUSTING TOOL SCREWDRIVER TIP & FEELER GAUGE 500905
Tool from my toolbox and the distance at the distributor contact is checked now.

net i have to take my new old
Bosch strobe lamp to check the timing
but first i have to look for information how to do it

but a little bit fun has to be
going with the car of a friend ;-)

i don't have much time on this weekend because i have to work for the work, and it's pretty hot outside.

Too bad, the car was probably not restored with as much love and attention to detail as I thought....

To adjust the ignition it would be quite good if the start hand crank would fit on the crankshaft, but the engine hangs about 3mm too low and about 1mm in driving direction to the left,
I found this on the net.

http://tc4985.altervista.org/

Do I now have to unscrew the nut at the bottom and then loosen a little more at the top right than left?

so first fit this and then the ignition ....


Translated with http://www.DeepL.com/Translator and me ;-)

Yes I would loosen the mounts and then try to nudge the engine to center. Sitting too low may be a sign that the rubber is old and sagging. Or you should be able to shim it up slightly.

a lot of people have used the car the last 82 years
a lot of people don t use there brain to solve problems

i promised my wife not to work too the car

all i wanted to do is to set the timing of ignition
the engine to deep so i cant use the hand crank

i take a look to the engine mount
i found horrible rubbers and a missing washer,
the most important washer i think

so i will reassemble all as it is,
and looking how bad the ignition timinig is

if it is bad, i will push the car to place the crank in the right position

i will order new rubbers and the important wascher, between engine mount and rubber
so silly, only some cent such a washer
so the rubber is damaged
on the right side it looks still ok but the left side worth
so i change both

but one question
the yellow arrow shows to a srew i don t know how i can get it out
i open it from the bottom ?
and i can take it off then from the top

right ?

Steve, the box for you, ready to take of ;-)

Hallo
today i take a bosch timing strobe light to fix the timing
Carl give me 35 degree to OT
so i make a sign withe yellow paint

i loose the screw fixing the distrubutor

next step , start engine
3500 rm minute
turn the distrubutor so that the yellow mark stand to OT
the engine runs perfect.
we start again the engine
all ok

20 Minutes later after a cup of coffee
i could not start the engine
what happend ???
i took the bosch light again, no light if engine should start.
the same problem i had last week ??
a wire broken or damaged?? the condenser ??

so i took my new powerspark iginition

i think
there was never a problem with the carburettor, or something else, it is the ignition system ..

i will see later

here some pictures

i have to see how to wire the powerspark iginition now

the description says:
How do you wire the (Positive Earth) Powerspark PLUS kit?

We have a simple two wire installation for the positive earth system with the white wire going directly to the ignition feed before the ignition feed gets to the coil.

Do not attach the white wire to the ignition coil, attach it only to the ignition feed wire and simply insulate.

Once this is done then put the Black wire to the -‘ve terminal and then connect the +’ve side of the coil to ground (so directly to the nearest earth)


i don t understand that in the moment...
confuesd
the q12 ist labeld with SW and CB , it is a coil for positive ground...

so black wire to coil CB

white wire directly to iginition switch = "-" Power

earth of car = "+" to SW on coil

teh car is running again
now with powerspark
white to "-" from relay also one wire to fuel pump
black from powerspark to SW of the q12
CB on Q12 to ground "+"

then timinig to 35 degree before OT

not to praise the day before the evening

i have to see what happen when the car and teh iginition coil is really hot

Are you using standard T-type spark plug wires? The Pertronix/Powerspark type unit is not made to work with copper wire.