- Steve Simmons
- Site Admin
- Posts: 878
- Joined: Wed Dec 26, 2012 10:48 am
- Location: Southern California
With the O ring removed I shone a torch at locating hole and is much like a Cotter pin hole in that distributor sits firm on machines surface and locating hole a near perfect fit.
I would think just a neat interference fit of shaft on bush
Mine was all wobbly and oil was leaking up severe.and shorting out at high revs such as over 50 mph.
Now has been bench tested to 10,000 crank shaft revs.
Not many places here in Oz repair these now.
Interestingly a place in Qld specialising in VW lever arm shocks happy to do the rear on my TC but want both to balance although one is only leaking but quoted something like 250 dollars I think which is ok
It's a shame there wasn't an exchange service as with my distributor took nearly 2 months
In the US we have the excellent Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors, who probably takes less than 2 months. Most importantly, he will contour your advance curve, dependent on the modifications to or demands of your engine, driving style, and needs. A thorough rebuild involves testing on a Sun distributor machine, checking for looseness of the body on the tube (only sometimes fixable), complete dismantling, renewal of the bush(es), checking for wear on the weights and body, broken clips, etc., polishing of the shaft if necessary, replacement of the springs and/or weights, thorough lubrication, replacement of the points plate and a new red rotor, another visit or two to the Sun machine and appropriate tweaking of advance curve to a max full-advance of 32 degrees. A VERY finicky process!
Of course, if originality is not a concern there are excellent alternatives - a modern, modified distributor with vacuum advance, or a 123 unit with a programmable advance curve. For innovation I always look to the racers
for the latest and best.