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It might be of interest that I intend to fit a petrol gauge. Whilst there is nothing wrong with the low level warning light idea, I felt that a gauge would be an attractive addition and to that end I have commissioned John Marks of Vintage Restorations (England) to make one. It will match the other British Jaeger instruments that he is restoring for me.
I have found a 500mm dip tube type sender unit that closely matches the required 4 - 80 ohms and it will be fitted to the opposite end of the tank to the existing filler. I intend to fettle another cap to disguise the top of the sender unit. It should look like a twin filler tank...quite sporting, I think.
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Yes, that is what John Marks makes. As he owns the trade mark it will be a matching green British Jaeger gauge.jeffnewey wrote:Ray,the YT Tourers had a petrol gauge that matches the other TC instruments!
I am also having a matching "boost" gauge with vacuum reading to go with the Eaton M45 supercharger. I spoke with Steve Baker today and he hopes have it ready by the end of next week. We have been waiting on the carb. I have opted for a 1 3/4" SU.
Hello Vernon. I have bought a 500mm dip tube type sender unit which has a 75.4/ 4 ohm range which is pretty close to the 80/4 ohm of the gauge. John Marks says he can "tweak" the gauge to make certain that the needle comes to rest on it's peg.frenchblatter wrote:Ray, I think a 1960s rheostat type tank unit will fit in the existing warning lamp unit. I've not measured it but the flange looks the same. You can then use the same wire that goes to the warning lamp to run the gauge.
One thing that I was worried about was if the sender unit would have any solid state components that might be polarity sensitive. The reason why this was a concern was that the fitting instructions only show a negative earth and my car is positive earth. Fortunately, a check with the suppliers ( ETB instruments of Southend on Sea) confirmed that it is safe for me to swap over the wires for + earth.
The reason for a dip tube type sender unit is that any other floating arm type would not work in the tank because of the vertical baffles. The existing unit has a short float arm that only operates at the bottom of the tank. I fully intend keeping the low level warning light in addition to the gauge.