Ah, the infamous door gap! Assuming when latched the door is pulled up tight against the body, if not shim the latch to make it close tightly. Is it the same way at rear by the elbow rail? If so perhaps you can reposition the hinge mounting screws to tilt the door in slightly at the top. If the timb...

I enjoy my little green low fuel light, not that I look forward to it coming on, but it is nice to see something working as it should. This entire mechanism is so simple to make right there is no reason to do without it. A proper fix is reasonably simple and you don't have to live with leaking fuel ...

One could write a book about this subject. I built and skinned a new tub for TC2911 a few years ago when I did the restoration so had plenty of experience fitting doors. Firstly I used thru screws with nuts and washers instead of wood screws. The rear edge of the door is supposed to sit slightly up ...

Well the ride could be quite jarring if a damper is empty and just because it leaks does not mean it is empty, sometimes they will seep a bit. Certainly worth topping up. One has to keep in mind this is a pre war car running on beam axles with cart springs at each corner, although if the springs are...

Just a couple of thoughts, are your dampers filled with fluid? If not the TC can be quite jarring. What sort of air pressure are you running in your tires, that will make a difference. Greasing the leaves would be a good thing. I honestly find mine to be not unpleasant with 30 lbs. in the tires, 30W...

I think Sherrell points out the change from twin to single took place prior to TC5000 approx.
Steve

Could very well be along with the thin flanges warping, fuel soaking through the gaskets, screws not tight, etc. etc. Keep in mind this sender arrangement was used on almost every Brit car up through the 70's generally without problem. But when you set the tank up on edge instead of it laying flat, ...

JB Weld, no gaskets, be sure to dope up all the screws and cover plate, terminal post, etc and allow to set up prior to adding petrol.

Fill to about an inch below the top, when it gets hot it will overflow out the drain tube to it's own level. About the same method as the petrol tank......

I think I would powder coat that as soon as I could to prevent rust.

Take a good sharp hack saw blade and cut a couple or three slots in the bushing and collapse it in on itself, it will come out.

yes, essentially that is the way mine is set up, I laugh at the weather..........

I replaced those bushings in my car some time ago and did find some indications of contact as you mention and suspect to some degree this may be normal considering slight movement of the axle. I also suspect in reality they do little to keep lube out of the brakes. In your case, even with the tapere...

Steve,
It was under the Technical Articles under Engines. I think it was the last article and there were some photos as I recall, thanks

Good question, when I had a rear spring re arched it was done cold, there was a reason and as I recall something about changing the characteristics of the spring steel. Not sure how this would affect a front axle, but I think if I could I would do it cold. Speaking of missing articles, what happened...

One pretty TC!

Looks nice, mount the coil upside down though to be correct.

Some of the Morgan guys have done that to their cars when fitting mechanisms to allow their windscreen to fold, ala TC., no holes need to be drilled. That said by careful spacing you can fit Brooklands screens on the scuttle humps in such a way that you can raise and lower the windscreen without int...

Tom, Mine is set up with a small pipe from the branch or Y pipe between the water pump and lower radiator outlet with a hose running below the carbs, through the firewall to the heater. The return hose comes off the heater, through the firewall to an outlet on the cover plate at the rear of the cyli...

Good looking airplane too..........